Gluten Free in Paris

I've recently come back from a midweek trip to Paris with my boyfriend and thought I would share my experience on eating gluten-free there. First of all, there is lots and lots of informative reading about being gluten-free in Paris on the internet. Just google it and you'll find lots of information and tips.

I arrived in Paris with my little list of recommended eateries, shops and areas but to be honest, the only ones I was REALLY interested in were Biosphare - an entirely gluten-free shop, and Des Si et Des Mets - the first gluten-free restaurant in Paris. We arrived late Sunday night, but first thing Monday, we set off to find Biosphare as it was located less than a 10 minute walk away from our hotel. To my disappointment, when we approached the shop, we were greeted with an empty unit. It wasn't just closed for the day, it was closed. This was very disheartening as I had been looking forward to using up my baggage allowance bringing back some goodies, and asking the owner for some advice on places to eat! Not to worry, we'll go to the gluten-free restaurant tonight, we thought.

That evening, we got the metro out to Montmartre and had a little wander before making our way up the hill to Des Si et Des Mets, when low and behold, we were greeted with another closed unit! The shutters were down and the plants in the hanging baskets outside looked how I felt on discovering the closed restaurant. We never actually went back to this place, so I don't know if it has actually closed down, but it didn't seem like a temporary closure and there were no fixed menus outside like other the others featured. It would seem that the information I found on the internet is quite out of date, and indeed, looking back on the bookmarks I'd saved, a lot of them are from 2008, 2009 and early 2010.

I hope my post provides some up-to-date help for any gluten-free travellers planning to visit Paris in the future!

So what did I eat there? Well, in one of the posts I read about Naturalia - if you live in the UK, this shop is similar to Holland and Barrett. It stocks a wide range of gluten-free goodies which I stocked up on. I got bread (not as good as other stuff I've tried, admittedly), brioche - gorgeous!, cereal, biscuits, crackers, crispbread, madeleines! They have a gluten-free brand there called Valpiform which comes highly recommended. The shop had a lot of stuff you can't get over here, so I made a point of buying quite a bit.. which may have accounted as to why my suitcase was 8kg overweight - eep! So for breakfast in the morning, I had a buttered brioche roll, with some fresh fruit from the market outside our hotel, and a cup of tea or coffee - lovely!

At lunch time, we would stop at a patisserie (if you've been to Paris, you'll know that there's one every 6 feet or so) and have a coffee outside in the sun. My boyfriend would have something from the menu - a croque monsieur or some frites, and then afterwards we'd find a nice park to sit down and I would have crackers with ham and cheese slices, bought from one of the supermarkets such as Franprix (again, these are everywhere, easy to stumble across while you're out and about). For treats, I'd have some of the madeleines or cookies I'd bought, and on another day I bought 16, yes 16 macarons from Laduree - if you've never tried these, I would highly recommend them! They aren't cheap, but they're lovely a total must! They're naturally gluten-free, made from egg whites, almonds and sugar, with a fondant centre in flavours such as raspberry, chocolate, vanilla, pistachio.. Yum!

In the evening, I won't lie, unless you plan exactly where you want to go in advance, it can take a bit of wandering to find somewhere suitable to eat. On our first night we ate at a chain steak-house type restaurant which had a special allergy list showing what I could and couldn't have. I chose Steak-Frites - I was in Paris, I had to have it once!

On our second night, we ate at a very friendly restaurant called Le Parvis, located just round the corner from Notre Dame. The waiter is what swayed us to eat there. While we perused the menu earlier in the day, he came out and said hello and was quite funny, and despite not speaking great English, he made me feel comfortable enough to ask about gluten-free meals. I had lamb chops with fries and haricot verts. I know, frites again but I do love them!

Our last night took us to Montparnasse, where I was determined to find a nice seafood restaurant. We found a really nice one on the corner called Le Bar a Huitres. I enjoyed a wild alaskan cod fillet with creamy mashed potatoes and spinach, while my boyfriend opted for duck breast. Both meals were lovely, the waiters knew what contained gluten (for example, I couldn't have the Aoli served with my fish) and it wasn't too pricey either!

I'd say that it can be fairly easy to eat gluten-free in Paris if you go to the right places, speak to your waiters, do a bit of 'al fresco' dining, and make use of the supermarkets and health food shops.


Bon Appetit!

Welcome to Going Against the Grain

Having lived, or rather suffered with coeliac disease, undiagnosed, for as long as I can remember, I finally got checked out and was diagnosed last May. Since then, I've been learning to live gluten-free, and am still learning now! I've decided to create this blog to share my finds, recipes, ideas and hopefully learn new things myself along the way! Ciao for now, Melissa